of the Jacquard automated loom
In consequence of the Industrial Revolution, the late 18th century had
witnessed a considerable expansion in the automation of
processes that had once been the preserve of small groups of highly skilled workers
employed in so-called `cottage industries'. The textile industry was one sphere were
industrialisation had rendered obsolete such skills. Whereas, prior to the development of
mechanical looms and weaving machines, lengths of fabric had to be woven slowly by hand,
the advent of powered tools for carrying out this task meant that quantities of fabric
could be mass-produced at a far quicker rate than previously, thereby reducing its
expense. There was one area, however, where the new machines could not compete with
skilled manual workers. In the generation of cloth containing anything other than a plain
(or at best extremely simple) woven pattern. The Jacquard Loom provided a solution to this
problem so that, with it in use, extremely intricate patterns and pictures could be
automatically woven into cloth at much the same rate as a plain length of fabric could be
generated. Image a world where all clothes were made from a single cloth color?
The key idea behind Jacquard's loom was to control the action of the
weaving process by interfacing the behaviour of the loom to an encoding of the pattern to
be reproduced. In order to do this Jacquard arranged for the pattern to be depicted as a
groups of holes `punched' into a sequence of pasteboard card. Each card contained the same
number of rows and columns, the presence or absence of a hole was detected mechanically
and used to determine the actions of the loom. By combining a `tape' of cards together the
Jacquard loom was able to weave (and reproduce) patterns of great complexity, e.g. a
surviving example is a black and white silk portrait of Jacquard woven under the control
of a 10,000 card `program'.... Jacquard's invention of the punched card is now recognised
as important largely because of the influence it had on other developers of computing
machinery utilizing his punch card concept.
Definition-Jacquard: A decorative woven or knitted
pattern manufactured by using the Jacquard attachment on the loom. This attachment has a
punch card like a piano, so it offers better design versatility and fabric control. The
word "jacquard" comes from the French inventor, Joseph Marie Jacquard, who
invented the aforementioned loom in 1801. Some types of jacquard fabrics have specific
names, like damask and brocade. Used in a variety of apparel, like our Holdup Suspenders
and home goods form drapes to upholstery....
The Inventor's history - Joseph-Marie Jacquard, born in
Lyons, France in 1752, was born into a family of weavers. The weaving profession was a
long and tedious process, often taking long periods of time to produce the fine woven
fabrics of that era. When his parents passed away, Joseph inherited the family weaving
The amount of time that was put into such a profession almost eliminated
the profit of the fabric, so Joseph saw it fit to invent a loom that would design such
patterns automatically. Previously, in order to make the intricate patterns of the fabric,
there was a need for a drawboy, the least glamorous of any position in the weaving
industry. The drawboy was to sit inside the loom and lift or move a number of threads
according to the directions of the master weaver. After lifting or moving the threads, the
shuttle pulled a thread through, showing only where the master weaver instructed the
drawboy to change the pattern.
As a result of the Industrial Revolution and the creation of automated processes, such as
mechanical looms and weaving machines, plain fabrics could be mass-produced at a much
greater rate and lower cost than in the past.1 Unfortunately, anything other than
extremely simple patterns could still only be generated by skill workers at a great
Joseph Jacquard recognized that weaving, although an intricate and delicate task, was
highly repetitive task. He believed that the weaving of complex patterns could be
automated just the manufacturing of simple patterns had. He conceived a system that relied
on stiff, pasteboard cards with various patterns of punched holes. At each throw of the
shuttle a card was placed in the path of the rods. The pattern of holes in the card
determined which rods could pass through4 and thus acted as a program for the loom. This
control system allowed for flexibiliy and various levels of complexity in the patterns.
Joseph Marie Jacquard while employed in a textile factory used his spare time in
constructing his improved loom, of which he had conceived the idea several years
previously. In 1801, he exhibited his invention at the industrial exhibition at Paris;
and in 1803 he was summoned to Paris to work for the Conservatoire des Arts et Métiers. A
loom by Jacques de Vaucanson (1709-1782), deposited there, suggested various improvements
in his own, which he gradually perfected to its final state. He was rewarded with a medal
after He presented his invention in Paris in 1804. He did get a patent for his design,
however the French government claimed the loom to then be public property, giving Jacquard
a slight royalty and a small pension.
Joseph Marie Jacquard's invention was fiercely opposed by the
silk-weavers, who feared that its introduction, owing to the saving of labor, would
deprive them of their livelihood. In fact, the introduction of these looms caused the
riots against the replacement of people by machines in the second half of the 18th
century. However, its advantages secured its general adoption, and by 1812 there were
11,000 automated looms in use in France. The Jacquard loom was declared public property in
1806, and Jacquard was rewarded with a pension and a royalty on each machine.
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Jacquard History continued
Joseph-Marie Jacquard invented an automatic loom which
used pattern punch cards for the control of patterns within fabrics. The punch cards
allowed for complex patterns to be woven more efficiency than by humans. Jacquards
invention helped not only the textile industry, but helped in the advance of technology.
The Jacquard loom not only cut back on the amount of human labor, but also allowed for
patterns to now be stored on cards and to be utilized over and over again to achieve the
same uniform product.
The idea behind the Jacquard-loom was a system of punch cards and hooks. The cards were
made very thick and had rectangular holes punched in them. The hooks and needles used in
weaving were guided by these holes in the cardboard. When the hooks came into contact with
the card they were held stationary unless it encountered one of the punched holes. Then
the hook was able to pass through the hole with a needle inserting another thread, thus
forming the desired pattern. Intricate patterns were achieved by having many cards
arranged one after the other and/or used repeatedly.
This idea of punch cards was revolutionary because it used the idea of a machine having
the ability to follow an algorithm. These punch cards were innovative because the cards
had the capability to store information on them. This ability to store information was
what helped spark the computer revolution. Later, however, Jacquard's invention of the
punchcards , would be used to design the first calculators in technological history. His
invention was pivotal not only in the industrial revolution but also the technological
Joseph Marie Jacquard died at Oullins (Rhóne) on the 7th of
August 1834, and six years later a statue was erected to him at Lyon. Ironic isn't it that
Holdup Suspenders now uses both computers and ecommerce to help sell their patented
jacquard suspenders online.
Special offer: All orders shipped to USA
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tone-on-tone woven patterns look great with that Button-on traditional look... Click here to see all
8 Jacquard colors in dual clip model,
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Double-UPs Jacquard Pattern Directory ..click for complete detail pages
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Same Jacquard patterns are
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to Holdup Suspender single"Finger Clip lines"
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